Nowhere to Run

March 29 - 31

We like Buenos Aires best on weekends…life is noticeably slower. Streets are almost devoid of traffic; and for us, this is the best time to explore the city on foot (which is our usual "modus operandi"). Saturday was no exception. We headed toward Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires’ old waterfront, which has been turned into an upscale waterfront area. A lengthy promenade full of new high rise luxury apartment buildings, hotels, restaurants and a “greenbelt” of waterfront parks all along the Rio Plata. By the time we ended up at Puerto Madero it was time for lunch.

We stopped at Sottovoce, (http://www.sottovoceristorante.com.ar/) and ate some of the best pasta we’ve had since our last trip to Italy.

After a great meal we walked for another 2+ hours along the promenade, across the very funky Puente de la Mujer (Bridge of the Lady),

and into the heart of the barrio.

Our only stop was at Faena Hotel + Universe, (http://www.faenahotelanduniverse.com/) the “trendy“ hotel where many of the stars that visit Buenos Aires stay. It’s very upscale in a “hip” sort of way.

We have had great weather these last few weeks (sunny, little humidity, 70s), so on Sunday we once again spent a good portion of the day walking. We took a new route and ended up in front of the Palacio San Martin, a beautiful building (very French, very ornate, very fabulous)…

with an outstanding entrance....

and then over to Patio Bullrich, an upscale shopping mall in Buenos Aires. After buying wine for this evening’s entertaining, David decided it was only appropriate (being in such a ritzy place) to do the extreme opposite and have our first McDonald’s since we’ve been in Argentina. Why the developers allowed a McDonalds is in such an expensive mall surprised us.

Not only were the cheeseburger and crispy chicken sandwich superb (what does that say about our dining palate?), but we finally understood why waiters in all the restaurants we have been going to would ask me a question when I ordered “ ¼ pollo”. Apparently when you order a ¼ chicken, you are asked if you want a breast or a leg. "Pechuga?" (chicken breast) is what the waiters always ask and also is what McD’s calls it’s chicken breast sandwich here in Argentina. This is really good news for me because now I know what to say (as opposed to pointing at) when he’s asking!

We had dinner with our friend Rick on Sunday evening…and 2 bottles of wine later I can tell you that David (who didn’t do his homework) was NOT ready for his Monday morning Spanish lesson.

April 1

The Portenos are really great. Almost everyone takes the time to chat, smile when they see us check our Spanish/English dictionary and/or useful phrase guide, ask how we’re enjoying our stay, and in many cases share a few political sentiments, usually about their government…not ours. The people here give off really good vibes, which to us is what makes this city a great place to visit and enjoy. Fortunately, many of those we’ve met lately speak a little English so that we’ve had some really interesting conversations (we think).

Today, for example, we stopped in to a small shop near our apartment to buy a few things to bring back to the States. Elsa, the owner, spent 20 or so minutes with us as our purchases were being wrapped and then gave us each a small pewter figurine as a remembrance. A very nice gesture on her part and typical of many of the business owners here. In restaurants, you are almost always served an aperitif at the beginning of your meal or some cookies with your café. Simple things that say thanks for coming here. What a novel concept - make your customer feel welcome!

After a brief stop back at the apartment we decided to be adventurous and take the Subte (subway). (http://mapas.metrovias.com.ar/subte/metronet/recorrido.asp)

Now, we are no strangers to subways around the world but we had yet to take one in Buenos Aires, so off we went. We can now confirm that the cars are not air-conditioned and it can get hot and steamy, but then again, for only 90 centavos, US 30 cents each way, it sure beats walking.

We decided to retrace our steps and go back to Palermo Viejo and wander around. It’s a barrio that reminds us of the East Village and SOHO in NYC. A lot of shops, restaurants and buildings either needing renovation or in the process of being renovated.

A fair bit of graffiti too!

After a nice walk we went back to catch the subte home.

The weather has been nothing but dry and sunny for the past couple of weeks. However, when we came out of the subway to start our walk back home, the sky was dark and foreboding and we still had a 10 block walk to the apartment.

Unfortunately for us the skies opened up…thunder, lightning, and rain pelting down. We have nowhere to run and to stay dry. After 20 minutes of standing under awnings, we are soaking wet and decide we might as well bite the bullet and just head home. So here we are, wet to the bone, in our lobby…but still smiling.

Tomorrow morning is another Spanish lesson (#4) and while I have done most of my homework, it’s a slow road. I am having difficulty putting together sentences. Reading comprehension is pretty good and my ability to understand what people say to me has improved considerably, but speaking is a whole different world. My instructor says it’s “typico”, I think he’s being polite!

We’ll see.